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High chance of damaging the system if you do that IMO - no way I’d connect AOA & Pitot. Confirm with Dynon support.

No - why not add the AOA/Pitot head ? It doesn’t need to be heated if cost is a factor however the advantage of that is something I wouldn’t dismiss. There are other ways to have a low speed warning which may cost enough to consider not going that way anyway. YMMV.

In a word - no ;)

Newer HDX’s do not have the usb cable included (part of harness) anymore - not sure of the serial numbers that this started from. Dynon now have a usb A to panel cable for that purpose. Ps- FWIW - mount the usb socket higher up on the panel, or somewhere else ‘out of the way, as I’ve seen many...

I’d go for the shelf idea - think future accessibility & also the longer wiring & tubing install.

I would cap it at the pitot end anyway (don’t like leaving pipes ‘open’ due possible insect etc blockage) & disable the AOA on the screen. That leaves everything in place for future activation.

Ok, now I believe we‘re close to a solution 🙏 & that’s the reason for my previous questions. You have wrung out the wiring, which most do, however there is the forensic side to these issues that should be considered although normally that is not required. Maybe the ‘fault’ is close to or near...

To me it appears to be only happening to 1 aircraft & therefore at least, probably, not a manufacturing fault or software Issue or we’d be hearing of other cases - unlike the issue with some earlier a/pilot panels. Without have to troll through all the ’posts’ - did you try another a/p panel ...

Ok, I’ll add some other points into the mix - If you are using the ‘white’ covered Dynon network cable then that may? be putting a strain on the a/pilot panel board connectors resulting in fractures of the solder. What what type of fuse or circuit breaker are you using? Did you bypass it...

It’s not been mentioned before ? But what electric trim motors do you have fitted ? Rhino’s post #23 asked if the Dynon Trim Amp unit is fitted - answer ?

Yeah, my bad - but you get the drift - hopefully more posters give feedback as to what the solution was for the issue they had 😉

YYC650 - thanks for reporting back to us the ‘solution’ to your issue - I’m sure this would & could help others experiencing similar faults ;)

1 = no 2 = Trim motors are just that - they are usually low current draw motors & drive TRIM tabs. The SERVO motors are much more powerful & are powered directly from the electrical bus & controlled by the Dynon system via the SV network. 3 = correct. 4 = correct. Basically the a/pilot servos...

My method is to - Center the 'ball' n flight at your normal cruise speed. First step is that the plane should fly straight without your feet on the rudder pedals. Add a rudder trim tab if necessary. Now you may have a 'heavy' wing so then adjust the rigging or add Aileron trim tab or raise or...

You probably already know this - Red Avionics have the CP10A specifically for the VMS probes, I have bought 5 of them recently & they do work. The voltages are similar to what is in Post #1 above. There are some difficulties setting it up as the instructions aren’t clear enough IMO - PM me if...

Uavionix A-30E is another choice ;)

5/8th hole will work if just using thermocouple & sensor wires, I never run high tension wire with them.

Just a wild thought here - do you have any 12v to 5v adapters plugged in anywhere on or near the Instrument panel ? Did you also try turning everything else off, then turn them on 1 at a time, to determine if other avionics/electricals are causing issues ? Btw, a composite panel is not the...

Thanks Mark. Just thought I add this to help others -There is 1 case where an Red Avionics converter is needed is when changing out from the VMS units (ie VM1000 or 800) as their CP10A converts the frequency output to capacitance (0 - 5 volt) usually required by Glass displays & gauges.

Been there, done that. No one gets everything right regardless of training &/or experience - don’t ask how I know. ps - I know I’m asking the obvious, just trying to help, however you don’t have the ‘keep alive’ wire still connected do you ?