The amp reading on my EMS-D120 is reading -29Amp on idle speed. If I increase the RPM to 2000Rpm the reading change to -30, -31 and -32 at 2000RPM. The voltmeter is working fine. 12V at idle and goes up to 13.8V at 2000RPM. I then swapped the thin leads around on the shunt. Now the reading is worse and reading -42A on ammeter. Any advice will be appreciated.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Amp reading
- Thread starter Rhyne
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2005
- Messages
- 13,226
Where is your shunt in your electrical system? It is only supported on the positive side of the battery.
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2005
- Messages
- 13,226
We're stumped at the moment, especially if you haven't changed anything in the aircraft. Please give us a call at 425-402-0433 to work with our technical support staff on this further.
PhantomPholly
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2007
- Messages
- 582
If it "worked before" and does not now, clearly something has changed.
For what it's worth, it seems extremely unlikely that the Dynon circuits have failed if they are giving ANY indication - so it seems more likely that some wiring has failed. Is it even possible for a shunt to fail?
If you want Dynon's help, you should:
a) Provide answers to the configuration questions they posted
b) Re-confirm that all connections are secure, and that each wire has good continuity (e.g. didn't break in the middle inside the shielding).
My bet would be on a bad connection - I have had a couple of incidents of this where a crimp was not done well (originally I used a less expensive crimper, but wised up soon as I discovered inconsistent results).
For what it's worth, it seems extremely unlikely that the Dynon circuits have failed if they are giving ANY indication - so it seems more likely that some wiring has failed. Is it even possible for a shunt to fail?
If you want Dynon's help, you should:
a) Provide answers to the configuration questions they posted
b) Re-confirm that all connections are secure, and that each wire has good continuity (e.g. didn't break in the middle inside the shielding).
My bet would be on a bad connection - I have had a couple of incidents of this where a crimp was not done well (originally I used a less expensive crimper, but wised up soon as I discovered inconsistent results).