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No, if you have the AoA port and the vents covered, it should not leak. Pitot leaks are pretty easy to find. Drop the probe out of its mast still connected to the pitot tube. Give it some pressure and squirt some soapy water around the probe. The bubbles forming will show you where the leak is.

Did you install the Dynon carb temp sensor P/N 100468-000, or are you reusing the original sensor?

This is a pretty fascinating defect! I will be following to see what you find here. AoA is serial data from the ADAHRS unit. Maybe try a Zero pressure IAS/AoA calibration as a start. This won't affect your AoA calibration data and is very easy. Pitot heats only connection to the SkyView is a...

Yes, there is quite possible a couple of versions. If OP could provide a part number of the regulator he has, we could pin it down pretty easily

Looks like L drops a ground when the alternator stops output. C is powered when the alternator switch is on. Never had much to do with the Rotax, but the VR looks the same as what was on my Ducati SD900 before I stupidly sold it.

If you are in simplified mode, then just press the "TRK+ALT" button. This will maintain your current track, and hold the altitude you are at. If you are in expert mode, then press "AP" and then "HDG" or "TRK", and "ALT HOLD" If you are new to the autopilot, I would suggest you put it in...

I retained an STEC electric trim system in a C210 HDX installation I did. Required some relays, but works really well as electric/auto trim

I had this on a customers Glassair. When he keyed VHF, all the EGT's went up a hundred or so degrees. He would also lose satellites on his GNS430W The VHF 1 and 2 antenna coaxes had been routed inside wiring looms behind the panel and down through the centre. Also, the builder had used RG-58...

Using the OAT probe with the AV-30 as an AH, gives you OAT, TAS and DH. Well worth the couple of hundred bucks for the probe.

Oh yes, I've seen some wonderful examples over the years. I was particularly referring to getting someone that knew what they were doing to make the cable :)

I had a BNC 90 degree adapter do this to me recently with a new Garmin GTX345 installation. The GTX was brand new, new antenna cable, and the adapter was brand new out of the packet. It caused a 1030Mhz receive fail. Process of elimination revealed the adapter was at fault. It wasn't a cheapo...

I reckon you have an electrically noisy power supply. Voltage won't be an issue, as modern avionics (Dynon included) will run no problem between 11-33 volts. Weird things happening in a digital system is indicative of noise on the power supply. The fact it went away when you stopped using the...

I use some Honeywell MLH series sensors on an AirTractor that give pretty precise pressure indications on the 5000psi hydraulic system using 0-6 volts. These, by the way, look exactly like the Kavlico sensors.

If I had to have a stab at it, I would say that when your D10A went for repair, they have upgraded the firmware, so now the D10A and the EDC have different firmware versions. Is your compass heading making sense?

Go to EFIS setup, and then go to "style" Make sure it is set to "Modern" and not classic. This should be the fix.

I've had one screen do this. Unfortunately it had to go back to Dynon. Turn-around was quite fast though. Get in touch with support and get an RMA

What is your nav source selected to on the 540? Is VLOC source green on the upper right of your 540 screen when you are attempting VOR/ILS?

I have mounted the magnetometer in the tail before, mounting it on a small shelf that spans the tail, attached to the mid stringer each side. Folded the edges for stiffness. I think I have a photo or two somewhere. On Cessna's, I have mounted it to a rib outboard of the fuel tank. Built a...

The D100 has a remote compass module (Magnetometer). The ADAHRS system is inside the screen. Roll levelling is not adjustable, and is dependant on the screen being mounted level in the aircraft. Level the aircraft, then run a small spirit level or digital protractor across the top of the...

A good start would be : 12.5v Bottom of the green 14.5v Top of the green Pick whether you want amber or red above or below, but have a look at your aircraft/alternator/voltage regulator specs