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I'd connect the tester at the pitot end of tubing to check the main system first as due to the design of the Dynon pitot there will be a small apparent leak  ;).  If you have a big leak as you appear to be suggesting then bypassing the pitot head, in the first instance, is the best way IMO  :)...

As DS said, you need to check the wiring  ;)  the connector on the MAP sensor actually has pins A, B & C shown on it as part of the moulding at manufacture, they can be hard to see as they are the same colour as the rest of the plastic. Jake J

Ed, I'd just use a dsub connector, they are reliable. Jake J

Thank you for posting the end result - it may help others :) Jake J

I know that feeling ::) Glad it all worked out for you. Jake J

Any orientation will work without issues [ch128512] Jake J

Not for the planes we build ;) Jake J

Another simple check is to disconnect the AOA line at the pitot end, then test & see what IAS you're getting. The better method would be to blow into the pitot tube from the front of it to confirm which one is the actual pipe, blowing into AOA pipe, with the air coming out the front, can appear...

How long ago did you buy the pitot ? I'd confirm, by blowing into the pitot ( with hoses disconnected) which one is the correct pipe. I have seen one that had a pipe reversed in manufacture. Jake J

I understand, the spade ( male) connectors are available as an AMP part, try EDMO or other supplier over there. I'm fairly sure AS&S & B&C don't have them. Ps - "working now" will probably come back to haunt you ;D Jake J

AFAIK there are no white amp ones, I just use the red as it suits the wire size :) Jake J

Steve I use the AMP brand ones, they work when used with the correct tool , ;) Jake J

Who said that & why? Show me the regulation reference. I'd get a second or third opinion - wait a minute, that's the problem with CASA, differing interpretations/advice/opinions from some individuals there. Please pm me, I may be able to help - maybe there's some confusion here ;) Jake J

I have only seen one 'fail' which was caused by constant flexing of the wiring out of the base by 'handling' the unit too often - not saying that happened here (just trying to help pin point the cause) but it's something to consider. I found that out as there were 2 x Gps 250's with a 9 pin...

Did you try removing the Volts widget then reinstalling it ?, worth a try ? Jake J

As mentioned before, my GX60 antenna has properly performed since 1998 & 1500hrs under 1/2" of foam sandwich with non metallic paint, I will 'test' the new 2020 antenna in the same position before drilling holes for external mounting. I'll also report here the results as soon as it's available...

DS - That's the answer we needed, no complaints from me 8-) Jake J

FWIW - I've found the SV-GPS-250 antenna will 'lock on' inside a steel hangar whereas the Garmin GTN, 400/500 & GX (Apollo) series Gps antennas will not. My GX60 (Tso 129A1) antenna works very well under the 1/2" foam fuselage top &, unless required to do otherwise, I will be mounting the new...

2 aerials, one for each radio ;) Jake J

You can make it either one, up to you. However if you have the Dynon as (displayed on SV) Com 1 you can use the database for entry of Com frequencies, that requires a current database but a lot don't do that here due cost. Jake J