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Very neat and well organised. You must be very pleased :)

Is the vinyl wrap preventing the panel grounding to the airframe? Perhaps the bare aluminium was grounded to the airframe but, now it's not, you're getting some strange loops. I would stick with only having the instruments grounded through their wires and not through the panel as well.

I’m no expert but I would certainly try isolating your equipment from the panel, as it sounds like you’re getting a ground loop by having multiple grounds to the same bits of kit. Just use the ground wires that you’ve installed and not the panel as well. All my stuff is mounted in a carbon...

VS 0 is exactly that, not Alt Hold. If you have a VS of 0 plugged in but hit mountain wave (for instance) you're going up (or down). The A/P may well stick the nose down to try and maintain a VS of 0 but you'll still go up. With Alt Hold the A/P will adjust your altitude and descend to the...

I think I'd have the intercom in horizontal format where the USB dongle is and put your 2nd radio where the intercom currently sits.

The Trig TY91 is tiny and it is only the head that is installed in the panel, with the radio itself being remotely installed. If you're after a rectangular radio then how about the PS Engineering PAR200B. Again, remotely mounted (Trig) radio, so no depth to the panel 'controller'.

I think the big question is, have you done an in-flight calibration yet?

It will fill up with colours once you've done the AOA calibration. I assume you have an appropriate pitot/AOA probe, heated or not.

Fair enough. Yes, the autopilot controller has the Level button but I just didn't see one on your panel design. I just assumed you were controlling through the HDX only, in which case a Level button would be handy.

I would be tempted to put a Level button above the Disconnect. Since you'll be operating the autopilot through the HDX this is a good way to initially engage the A/P and then you can make mode changes using the HDX. It also gives you the option of just pressing Level if you run out of ideas one...

Nice little EuroFOX with Rotax 912iS.

I don't know if VS is available in Simple Mode (I've never looked, since I've used Expert from day one) but, if it is, it is just a matter of pressing the VS button. The mode changes to VS and it preselects zero. I use this sometimes for exactly the reason you state. With a very light aircraft...

If TWR has the correct RDO frequency, then just use the knob to scroll to highlight the TWR freq and, at the bottom, press TUNE COM. The TWR/RDO crew will then transfer into the standby side of your radio. If you are saying the COM tab does not have a particular airfield's RDO frequency then...

Because of Dynon's refusal to incorporate an integrated intercom into their radio, I am fortunate in having the TC90 controller and a TY91 radio, linked to my HDX. I will eventually get round to installing the BT dongle for the autopilot and, maybe, the radio. I often use the radio transfer...

Excellent point, well made. It would be very nice if those RS232 inputs were as you've shown. Maybe they were not on the diagram I pasted because they are just not used in a normal radio set up. I agree that Pin 5 and a ground may well allow the Bluetooth dongle to do its job. Only one real way...

I THINK the problem with that theory is there isn't an RS232 input into the radio itself, only into the TY91/92 control head (TC90). I think if you had a TC90 you could supply that with the SkyDemon frequencies and it would display on the HDX but if you have the remote radio and Dynon radio head...

I have not yet connected mine, so my thoughts are only theoretical but I think the nicest thing would be the instant 'rubber banding' that can be carried out on the iPad (and then followed by the A/P), instead of having to adjust the flight plan. This is especially useful if the waypoint is just...

Yes, is the simple answer. You do exactly as you've written and just set it up as 0-2V light off, 2-5V light on (or the other way round if you wish). Create a 'lamp', with a label and plonk it in the engine strip. It's all pretty easy and I have one for my starter power, one for low fuel and...

Try setting 2500 RPM for 5 secs after start before you release the start power switch. This will get Gen A on line and might solve your problem. I have a start power timed relay, so never get this problem because the relay stays closed for about 30 seconds in total, thereby powering the start...

Have you turned your lanes on?