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Correct again Rhino - its a big (almost size of USA) country that has ~ 10% of your population, so a ‘full’ ADSB result is not going to happen any time soon - at least we have some coverage at lower levels near the higher traffic areas. “Looking out” is still a good option IMO.

What jnmeade said & further elaborating my post #8 - check the pins at the ends of the coax BNC fittings. The pointy end of the pins should be closely aligned with the end of each BNC & there is continuity without cable centre conductor shorting to ground. Wiggle the cable ends while checking...

Hi Gregg - you can DM me if you like. Given the number of 760 units ‘out there’, & possibly no similar reports, I figure 3 in a row for 1 user indicates to me there most likely is an airframe issue. Although you confirmed no ‘shorts to ground’ what I suggested was finding out if there was power...

So now we know the ‘fault’ is not a radio failure but a wiring/airframe issue - very sorry to be so blunt however you really need to double check the wiring & start at the wiring connector with it disconnected from the radio - 1. Turn the radio power on 2. Using a multimeter (ground the negative...

Gregg - my money is that the issue is not with the radio itself but more likely a wiring/antenna/coax cabling issue if your 3rd one fails then you’d have to agree IMO. I have never heard of a similar issue with the Dynon radio like Rhino & we’ve been here a long time. This is an example of what...

Check out the D25 connector on the D180, there should be pins fitted at 11,12,23,24, if not then no Magnetometer fitted - if there is a magnetometer connected then a search will eventually find it - good luck 🤞.

I’d just contact Dynon Support with the ‘old’ & new display serial numbers & they’ll give you a new code - easy peasy.

PTJ - You could swap the battery with the known good one on the other screen - Connect a battery charger to the airplane Turn on the battery master switch & turn off all unnecessary electrics but leave the main screen (with the suspect battery) on for say 4+ hrs Then check the backup battery...

PTJ - You could swap the battery with the known good one on the other screen - ie ‘suspect’ battery goes To the good screen. Connect a battery charger to the airplane Turn on the battery master switch & turn off all unnecessary electrics but leave the main screen (with the suspect battery) on...

Check your PM.

I’ve been using EB2 since the date of post #10 - no reported issues 😉.

Also I’d confirm you have the 5vlt line, white/red stripe, connected to them - just to be sure 😉

The resistors are for use on the ‘legacy’ (eg D120/180) units & not used on the SV series. Like GKC said - recheck your sensor definitions 😉.

Contact support@dynonavionics , they don’t monitor this site 24/7.😉

Just closing this out with a reply from Dynon a few months ago re my question about transferring from a Classic SV to HDX ---- "Jake, It will work ok doing that in most cases. Problem is that the default bottom EMS band will be black after the settings load. I have a file to restore it to...

“The engine readings will be positioned along the bottom of the screen as is standard for the HDX. “ skysailor - have you ever done the SV to HDX change ? The engine band, on the bottom of the HDX screen, will not be displayed if you save the settings from the SV & transfer them to the HDX the...

This link - https://dynon.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/15799473535124-Installing-SkyView-HDX-After-Trade-Up Same methodology applies regardless whether you accessed the “Trade Up” program or not. You will also need ‘black menu’ file from support - it enables the bottom engine band on the new...

“IF so, then a highly accurate ground calibration isn't really worth all the fuss; it just has to be accurate enough for the in-air calibration to have a "good enough" starting point. The ground calibration would also give some confidence that the magnetometer is mounted in a good enough...

Although I personally don’t trust that an electric ( read facet) pump will work when I need to transfer fuel. in your situation I’d just add the total fuel to the computer (providing you’re satisfied with the fuel flow & bowser use match up) & just run each main down enough that the aux tank...