Is it possible that my dual D100/120s are draining my aircraft battery (it has only 17AH) in four weeks? (Engine did not start) I do not have the internal backup battery installed. If so, would installing the backup battery prevent this from happening?
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Battery drain
- Thread starter N11UH
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Keep alive on a D100 will try and charge an internal battery, but it isn't super efficient at this, so if you have a dead internal battery, it can kill your main battery. We don't generally recommend the use of keep alive anymore, but making sure you have the latest software also helps.
Another issue is that if your amps shunt is always powered (before the master switch/contactor) then this draws a small amount of power as well.
Another issue is that if your amps shunt is always powered (before the master switch/contactor) then this draws a small amount of power as well.
DBRV10
Active Member
So if connected to the GPS via the HS34 I assume the clock data is always updated, thus no need for a keep alive wire at all?
This will save a few grams! ;D
DB
This will save a few grams! ;D
DB
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RE: Getting time from GPS, It matters what GPS you have hooked up and how.
NMEA serial out has time.
Aviation serial does not.
ARINC-429 has time.
NMEA serial out has time.
Aviation serial does not.
ARINC-429 has time.
Keep alive on a D100 will try and charge an internal battery, but it isn't super efficient at this, so if you have a dead internal battery, it can kill your main battery. We don't generally recommend the use of keep alive anymore, but making sure you have the latest software also helps.
I do not have a backup battery. Does that mean that the KA wire will just supply the internal clock and would this small current be able to drain a charged 17AH aircraft battery?
Same question with D180. My battery was dead yesterday and I'm trying to figure out what might have pulled it down. I have the KA attached and do not have the internal BB in my D180. Will the KA pull enough to drain the aircraft battery with no BB installed in the EFIS?
Mark
Mark
A couple weeks ago I sent my Internal Battery in to you guys for testing and then also sent my D100 in for the brite screen upgrade. The Battery tested good per your shop and I received a refurbed D100 with the Brite screen. I no longer have Keep Alive to the D100 since this is what was originaly thought to be causing issues. Ever since the 5.0 upgrade my internal battery drains to the tune of 2.5 volts over 2 days of the plane sitting.
I also left a vmail for Mike Huff.
Rick
I also left a vmail for Mike Huff.
Rick
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We did some tweaking of the power management code that fixed another issue that was causing some memory storage related failures in the field, but it's inadvertently caused this issue for a few of you. We're currently investigating and working on an update that we should have available soon. Until then, disconnecting KA is workaround.
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All,
We have made progress on the clock reset and internal battery drain issues and are looking for people who have experienced these problems that would like to help us test the fix. We have a software patch that we have had positive results with at the factory and need to confirm these results in the field to ensure we have resolved the issue.
If you are interested, please email support@dynonavionics.com (reference this post), and we will be in touch with you to see if you should try our software patch.
We have made progress on the clock reset and internal battery drain issues and are looking for people who have experienced these problems that would like to help us test the fix. We have a software patch that we have had positive results with at the factory and need to confirm these results in the field to ensure we have resolved the issue.
If you are interested, please email support@dynonavionics.com (reference this post), and we will be in touch with you to see if you should try our software patch.
marc.dahlet
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I am interested in trying your software patch
Best regards
Marc
Best regards
Marc
dickreeve
New Member
I too have experienced random acts of clock reset in my D10A with backup battery. I'd like to try the software mod also.
Dick (thingy) Reeve
Anchorage, AK
Dick (thingy) Reeve
Anchorage, AK
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If you haven't already, just email support@dynonavionics.com (reference this post), and we will be in touch with you to see if you should try our software patch.
marc.dahlet
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Hello
in order to be safe in my procedure, how do you install the patch ?
Thanks
Marc
in order to be safe in my procedure, how do you install the patch ?
Thanks
Marc
Marc,
1. Save the .efs file on you Laptop
2. Open the Dynon Product Support Program on your Laptop. Perform a Firmware backup as usual prior to any update.
Of course you must be hooked up to the EFIS with
the USB to serial cable.
3. Choose the Product "EFIS D100 / Auto Pilot" or which ever you are using from the drop down.
4. Select "Upload Firmware Backup" from the Choose Action: Drop down.
5. Click "GO"
6. A Microsoft Explore window will open. Find the .EFS patch file you saved in step 1. Double click on the file.
7. Follow prompts as in a normal upgrade. The screen will go Yellow and quickly be finished.
I did mine the other night and it took just seconds to load and reboot.
Things seem to be working just fine now. Need to get the unit charged fully to 16+volts to fully test. But the discharging and clock issue seems to be ok now. Time will tell. Very cold again in the North so might not be able to completely test the patch for a day or two.
Richard
RV7A
Slinger, WI
1. Save the .efs file on you Laptop
2. Open the Dynon Product Support Program on your Laptop. Perform a Firmware backup as usual prior to any update.
Of course you must be hooked up to the EFIS with
the USB to serial cable.
3. Choose the Product "EFIS D100 / Auto Pilot" or which ever you are using from the drop down.
4. Select "Upload Firmware Backup" from the Choose Action: Drop down.
5. Click "GO"
6. A Microsoft Explore window will open. Find the .EFS patch file you saved in step 1. Double click on the file.
7. Follow prompts as in a normal upgrade. The screen will go Yellow and quickly be finished.
I did mine the other night and it took just seconds to load and reboot.
Things seem to be working just fine now. Need to get the unit charged fully to 16+volts to fully test. But the discharging and clock issue seems to be ok now. Time will tell. Very cold again in the North so might not be able to completely test the patch for a day or two.
Richard
RV7A
Slinger, WI
marc.dahlet
New Member
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Thank you Richard!
OK; I have done the upload this afternoon and it has been completely successfull. Nice
Before doing the upload, I had 0 Volt on the internal battery, and the hour was lost. The main battery was at 12,0 Volt.
Than, I have connected an external charger on the main battery (for more security before uploading the patch). As soon as I had connected the external charger, the internal EFIS battery indication was 13,7 Volt, but the internal EFIS battery was really empty, because without main battery, EFIS shut down immediately.
After 1 hour charge, the values were the same. Then, I have disconnected the charger for 5 minutes for electricity reasons. This short delay has been enough to loose the hour and to have 0 Volt on internal battery. I really wonder if my internal battery is not completely out of service ? Don't you think so? May I test something ?
Last but important question : I have connected my external charger on the main battery for the next 24 hours. Every switch is down (off) : do you mean the internal battery of EFIS may charge ? (I think NO)
(without puting some switches ON ?)
How do you charge the internal EFIS battery ?
Best regards
Marc
OK; I have done the upload this afternoon and it has been completely successfull. Nice
Before doing the upload, I had 0 Volt on the internal battery, and the hour was lost. The main battery was at 12,0 Volt.
Than, I have connected an external charger on the main battery (for more security before uploading the patch). As soon as I had connected the external charger, the internal EFIS battery indication was 13,7 Volt, but the internal EFIS battery was really empty, because without main battery, EFIS shut down immediately.
After 1 hour charge, the values were the same. Then, I have disconnected the charger for 5 minutes for electricity reasons. This short delay has been enough to loose the hour and to have 0 Volt on internal battery. I really wonder if my internal battery is not completely out of service ? Don't you think so? May I test something ?
Last but important question : I have connected my external charger on the main battery for the next 24 hours. Every switch is down (off) : do you mean the internal battery of EFIS may charge ? (I think NO)
(without puting some switches ON ?)
How do you charge the internal EFIS battery ?
Best regards
Marc
Marc,
I will try to help here. To charge the Internal Battery you must have power on the EFIS (AC Power). The Internal Battery in the EFIS will not power the unit by itself unless it is charged to 14v or more, and at that it will not last long. It really needs to be up in the 16v+ range. I don't know why you are seeing 0 volts on the Internal battery. With A/C power on to your EFIS it should begin charging you Internal battery. I flew today for over 2 hours and the Internal battery only went from 14.8v to 15.3. Not sure if that is normal or not. We will let Dynon answer that.
Hope this helped.
Richard
I will try to help here. To charge the Internal Battery you must have power on the EFIS (AC Power). The Internal Battery in the EFIS will not power the unit by itself unless it is charged to 14v or more, and at that it will not last long. It really needs to be up in the 16v+ range. I don't know why you are seeing 0 volts on the Internal battery. With A/C power on to your EFIS it should begin charging you Internal battery. I flew today for over 2 hours and the Internal battery only went from 14.8v to 15.3. Not sure if that is normal or not. We will let Dynon answer that.
Hope this helped.
Richard
marc.dahlet
New Member
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Thank you Richard.
If I understand it well, for recharging the internal battery without disassembling, it is necessary to let the general contact (main switch) and to switch on the EFIS for several hours. Isnt'it dangerous for the main battery of the aircraft (even with an external charger ) ?
I think I will remove the internal battery of the EFIS and let it be tested (how ?), and then I will try to recharge it externally. (or to change it)
Best regrads
Marc
If I understand it well, for recharging the internal battery without disassembling, it is necessary to let the general contact (main switch) and to switch on the EFIS for several hours. Isnt'it dangerous for the main battery of the aircraft (even with an external charger ) ?
I think I will remove the internal battery of the EFIS and let it be tested (how ?), and then I will try to recharge it externally. (or to change it)
Best regrads
Marc
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2005
- Messages
- 13,226
The only way to charge the battery is in the EFIS. Please do not remove it and try and test it or charge it outside of the unit. It's a lithium-ion battery and requires a complex charging method. It also has a built-in protection circuit, so many tests you may do will come out wrong due to this.
You do need to power the EFIS to charge the battery. I don't see why having the aircraft on a charger and the EFIS on for hours will cause any issues. The battery takes at least 24 hours to fully charge if it's been totally discharged. If you let it charge for an hour and then turn the power off to test it, you're going to discharge the battery and have to start all over.
The internal battery voltage measurement on the EFIS is really your best test. Anything below 14.5V is basically empty- don't expect the EFIS to stay on below this. The voltage should change semi-quick below 15V. Once it gets to 15V or so, it's going to move slowly after that. Fully charged is above 16V.
If the battery is empty and you turn on the EFIS, just watch the battery voltage over an hour. If it goes up and is in the 14-16V range, then the battery is fine. It just needs a lot of time to charge.
The final thing is that if you have keep alive connected, you may need to disconnect this while you are trying to charge, since if you have a battery that is completely empty, this can make the EFIS think it doesn't have a battery installed.
You do need to power the EFIS to charge the battery. I don't see why having the aircraft on a charger and the EFIS on for hours will cause any issues. The battery takes at least 24 hours to fully charge if it's been totally discharged. If you let it charge for an hour and then turn the power off to test it, you're going to discharge the battery and have to start all over.
The internal battery voltage measurement on the EFIS is really your best test. Anything below 14.5V is basically empty- don't expect the EFIS to stay on below this. The voltage should change semi-quick below 15V. Once it gets to 15V or so, it's going to move slowly after that. Fully charged is above 16V.
If the battery is empty and you turn on the EFIS, just watch the battery voltage over an hour. If it goes up and is in the 14-16V range, then the battery is fine. It just needs a lot of time to charge.
The final thing is that if you have keep alive connected, you may need to disconnect this while you are trying to charge, since if you have a battery that is completely empty, this can make the EFIS think it doesn't have a battery installed.
marc.dahlet
New Member
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OK, thank you.
What value do you advise for settings of the external charger : 1 Amp, 2 Amp, more, less ?
Thanks
Marc
What value do you advise for settings of the external charger : 1 Amp, 2 Amp, more, less ?
Thanks
Marc