Net cable length
- Thread starter bdog
- Start date
Rhino
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2009
- Messages
- 1,539
Depends on your panel. Assuming they are right next to each other, with minimal gap, no structural members to traverse, no other cabling in the way, you could probably get away with six. But you're the only person who can make that determination. Also remember you'll want at least some slack for sliding boxes in and out of the panel. Without any slack, you'll have to reach behind the panel and disconnect them before removing the units. That works fine with some panels, but not so well with others. Again, that's something only you can determine. If in doubt, I'd probably opt for the eight. There's very little chance that extra two inches of cable will cause you problems.
Rhino, Thanks for the reply. I have a unique arrangement with my panel (RV8) in that after removing all the panel/sidepanel screws the panel drops down to a near horizontal position. Thus I can work on the whole backside and wiring on the backside panel of the baggage compartment. Service loops are incorporated for this method. I was simply checking for the tightness of the radius using a 6" cable.
The method I use is: There is an overlap between the instrument panel and the two side panels on the bottom flange. Roughly 1/2" square. Drill a hole in the middle of the square. (Size to be determined by the cowl pin you use.) slide a cowl pin into the two holes and close the pin. It now becomes the 'hinge', allowing the instrument panel to flip towards you. The size of the drilled hole will determine how far it flips. I use a string with two hooks (A hanger wire in my case) to keep the panel located at the position I use. (ballpark figure 6-10") You can virtually get a flat work area. Thus the ease of working the back side. All in the open. I have a second string to hold the panel near vertical when I get in and out of the seat.
I shall try to get a picture attached on a follow up to this verbage.
Cheers
The method I use is: There is an overlap between the instrument panel and the two side panels on the bottom flange. Roughly 1/2" square. Drill a hole in the middle of the square. (Size to be determined by the cowl pin you use.) slide a cowl pin into the two holes and close the pin. It now becomes the 'hinge', allowing the instrument panel to flip towards you. The size of the drilled hole will determine how far it flips. I use a string with two hooks (A hanger wire in my case) to keep the panel located at the position I use. (ballpark figure 6-10") You can virtually get a flat work area. Thus the ease of working the back side. All in the open. I have a second string to hold the panel near vertical when I get in and out of the seat.
I shall try to get a picture attached on a follow up to this verbage.
Cheers