I have a "Strong" Pitch trim system in my COZY MKIV. It does NOT draw more than 2A (hence the callout for a 2A breaker in the wiring). I do not have a "TRIMAMP", nor do I need one. If you're using a 2A CB and it doesn't pop when you run your trim, then YOUR trim motor isn't drawing more than 2A either, and the problem is either in the A/P panel or your wiring to it. I'm going to guess that your wiring was incorrect and it was taking the A/P panel down. Another possibility is that the "Strong" system needs to be disassembled and cleaned to reduce friction, but if that were the case I'd expect that it would pop the 2A breaker.Does anyon know if the Strong pitch trim motor can draw more than 5 AMPS? The instructions do not mention the amperage, except to say that it requires a 2 AMP cb.
Charlie, if physically moving the A/P panel causes it to go offline, that's pretty good indication that some connection somewhere is suspect. That doesn't seem to have anything to do with the pitch trim system. Probably/possibly the Skyview network connections.Thanks Marc... FWIW, I did check the wiring thouroughly, and the hat switch would work just fine for 2 or 3 secs before it caused the A/P panel to go offline.
Take a look at attached video...when i saw this is when i kinda gave up trying to diagnose the issue...Video
P.S. I did send the A/P panel back to Dynon, but they bench checked it and said it was 100% operational.
Ok sorry best of luck sorting it outWell, thanks, i appreciate your input, but I had this apart and reassembled about six times, replaced all the cables twice, including the network cables, and never saw any indication of wiring issues, but the weird failure of the A/P panel to be recognized by the Skyview network always reoccurred.
Last response on this topic, because you seem to have already decided that wiring can't be the problem, no matter what the symptoms show, but I'd bet that the issue here is a bad connection in the Skyview network wiring. MOVING the A/P head back and forth causes a disconnect - it's not EMI/RFI interference that's doing that, and certainly not because you have a metal IP. Connecting an electric motor to two wires, when that motor is not activated and has no current flowing through it, is not going to change the connectivity of the A/P head to the rest of the network just because the A/P head is being moved physically.Well, thanks, i appreciate your input, but I had this apart and reassembled about six times, replaced all the cables twice, including the network cables, and never saw any indication of wiring issues, but the weird failure of the A/P panel to be recognized by the Skyview network always reoccurred.
So one difference between "trim connected" and "trim not connected" is that when the motor is not connected to the two wires to the A/P head, they are just dangling, and the two pins on the A/P head are effectively not connected to anything. However, when the trim motor is connected (even when off), the two wires are connected to each other through the motor windings in the trim motor. I'm not an electrical engineer, and I have no idea what's going on inside the A/P head, but I can imagine that this could cause a different behavior, if something else was wrong.However, moving the control head back and forth doesn't move the wires on the pitch trim motor end of the db-15 connector to the A/P head, and the head disconnects (electronically), from the network when the wires on that end are connected to the motor, but remains recognized no matter what I do when the wires are not connected to the motor. Also, even when I am not physically moving anything, with the wires all connected, when I would first boot up, the Skyview network detect would find the A/P panel, but if I would try to run the auto pitch trim configuration menu, that would trip the A/P panel offline. And in that process, of course, no physical movement of anything is occurring.
Well, there goes that possibility - as you say, if two units have the same behavior, it's not the head. Which then sends us back to some sort of wiring issue. Can you somehow swap in some OTHER 12V DC motor (some sort of actuator that pulls < 2A), to see if THAT changes the behavior? If it doesn't, then as with the swapped head, it takes the trim motor out of the equation, and we're back to a wiring issue.As to the swapping idea, as I recall, that did occur to me back when this happened, and I did get Dynon to send me a replacement unit while they were bench testing it, but that unit also exhibited the issues...
Why not just swap the wires from the switch?.... (I needed the relays to reverse polarity from nose up switch to nose down switch.)