SV AP panel mount install

[CanardMulti]

One correction, i did not put relays between the A/P panel and the motor. I just took the A/ P panel out of the pitch trim circuit completely. I put the relays between the hat switch on the stick and the motor, eliminating the functions like auto-trim that the A/P panel provides (I needed the relays to reverse polarity from nose up switch to nose down switch.)

Got it.

I don't know about the grip I see in your video, but my Infinity grips come with a clearly stated requirement that comparatively high loads (for the very light internal components) like trim motors be controlled thru a relay deck. The hat switch in the grip controls the relay(s), the relay(s) feed power of the required polarity to the trim motor(s). When I installed my AP panel, I eliminated my relay deck.

Also, before I installed my AP panel, I had to have a selector switch on the instrument panel to choose which stick - pilot or copilot - was seen by the relay deck. The AP panel sees them both and gives priority to the pilot trim switch. If your back seater stick has the ability to control trim, you might consider taking it out of the circuit for the time being in order to reduce the number of variables in trouble shooting.

Ken

 

[cbretana]

Sorry, not sure what you mean. You need the relays because the hat switch only has one ground, and one positive output when you push the switch forward for nose down trim, and a second (also positive) output when you pull the switch back (nose up).

But the motor only has two wires going into it, say wire A and B. And if you put the positive voltage on A and put B to ground the motor runs one way, and if you put the positive voltage to wire B and connect wire A to ground it runs the opposite way. So the two relays do that for you, The A/P control head ahs that logic (along with other functionality) built into it.

This is the wiring diagram for the DB-15 connector on the A/P panel:

In my setup using the A/P panel, to eliminate the short-circuit issue, I did not wire up any of the RCP specific leads, and I did not connect the roll trim leads. I was not going to have any electric trim enabled from the back seat. So my wiring is a minimal set of connections.

With the relays, otoh, each of the hat switch outputs goes to a separate, (positive) relay input, and the nose up relay positive output connects to the motor A lead, and the relay negative to B, whilst the nose down relay connects the opposite way. You just need to make sure both relays are never energized simultaneously, as that would create a short circuit. Not a problem with the hat switch of course.

 

[Rhino]

So you're saying you needed the relays because you removed the AP-PANEL, not that you removed the AP-PANEL because you needed the relays. Okay, that makes more sense. I'm assuming you removed the AP-PANEL to save panel space, and that's why you needed the relays.

 

[cbretana]

Yes you got it now. I did not remove A/P panel. I just disconnected its Db15 pin (used for auto-trim functionality). Then, to wire up the trim motor myself, I added the relays cause without using the trim functions in the A/P panel, the relays are needed for trim motor to work in both directions.

 

[Rhino]

I may have missed something, but if auto-trim is causing this, and you disconnected the AP-PANEL to get rid of auto-trim, why not just disable auto-trim in the Skyview?

 

[cbretana]

No, Auto-Trim itself is not causing this. Using the A/P panel to control manual trim is causing this. And I did not disconnect the A/P panel completely, I just disconnected the db15 connector from the A/P panel. The db15 connector only connects to the manual trim switches, (normally a hat switch), and to the trim motor