Recent content by jakej

Sorry, forgot to add it - just use an electrical contact cleaner spray 😉 No need to wipe off the excess, it’ll evaporate away.

Yep, the RED dot is the one you’d use. I usually bin the ‘pink’ connectors as they are troublesome at best. I always buy the TE/AMP brand of crimp connectors for use at the other end of the harness. ( I also ’line up’ the probe wire ends, CHT/EGT 1 & 3, 2 & 4 so that it easy to swap them if you...

Believe ! You’re overthinking it😄. The ‘rod’ type is made of a brittle alloy & they typically break (the broken shaft will spin) just inside the mount which is usually caused by a bump when washing or polishing the plane. I had stopped using them on installs around 20 years ago. The Comant...

I understand that Alan, however, the standard way of starting is to have the engine data showing before engine start. 😉

Hi Alan, I’m thinking that maybe a cause of your issues is related to the bold text above. Dynon designed their system to allow the screens to be ON during engine start - no need to have a separate power switch - I’ve never used a switch for the screens & never had any issues as you described -...

We appreciate the feedback as to the resolution of the issue - thanks😉.

Rhino, you forgot another critical item = “electrical bonding“ of the antenna to airframe or ground plane 😄😉.

Yep, most people in the same situation would just say ‘my bad’ & move on😉.

Paul, I get it, however from my side I’ve done at least 60+ ADAHRS calibrations (using the high 120 + numbers) without ANY cal ‘failures’ or unit defects. This case ‘may’ be different - checking the security & also stiffness of the mounting would be very worthwhile doing before going down the...

FWIW I usually go for 125 & never had any issues - did he make sure the ADAHRS is still secure on its mount plate?

Airguy handled it well😁. Too bad about the steak for me as I’ll be in Milwaukee/ Chicago area next week & not OSH this year😢😂😂

Ok, but why did you not buy the B&C unit you mentioned a couple of years ago? One advantage you have now is that B&C offer a new ( I’m figuring it is to the typical B& C high standard) internally regulated unit for ~ $us595. IF you want to still mess around with a cheap auto unit then that’s...

I’ll make a guess - you have a Plane Power alternator ? No ?

Agree completely - in addition - clear alarms first, turn off the main bus & then you’ll get a message asking about ‘staying on’ or “Bat Test”. Press on that ‘button‘ & it will do the Bat Test procedure for ~ 45 mins. Suggestion here after you clear the ‘warnings’ - read the info at the bottom...

Me too - never had a chance to meet him personally however I’ll miss his no nonsense approach to solving ‘issues‘ I’ve had occasionally working on customers aircraft 😄