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In a word , yes.;) Always has.

The generic mount for the RV6 will do - I’m using 1 of those for the Zenith SD.

I'd have a look at the Avidyne units, much better IMO - check out their website,. Btw their warranty (if needed) is much better too.

Steve, Give me a call later today & I'll walk you through it ;) Jake Jansen Glasair IIS FT

A bit of searching will find the correct one to get ;) - I'm not sure of the p/n of it.

The Silent-Hektik regulator is a much better unit than the one supplied.

well....just connect it then to the bus. Search for 'widgets' in the above search box ;)

Pin 2 (EMS-220) allows you to do that, just add a 'widget' for Bus volts ;)

1. I was mistaken (unless Dynon says otherwise) - its been a while since I did an install with a legacy unit & looking through the install manual there appears to be no provision for external dimming. 2. no need to crawl in the back, just run the 2 wires for the OAT (GP input) to the underside...

FWIW - if you consider any avionics to be necessary then I'd go for at least the Dsub connectors as they are much less likely to 'fail'- the supplied molex can suffer from oxidization/corrosion & the sockets can spread open (with handling during connection/disconnects) causing faults that you...

OAT -simple, just add another one to the D10. Dimmer - same simple - a 10KoHm pot will do (very cheap)

'nuf said :)

Most likely needs a fiddle, not all fuel system setups are equal - that why you need to go through the calibration process IF you want accurate fuel flow computation. ;)

Try 29,000 as the initial K factor - Dang, guess I’ll have to pass on the pancakes.

The yellow ones will work just fine however you’ll need to cut the existing push on ( female) terminals off - just a little bit more work . Personally I just use the AMP brand push on spades with a good crimper- no real issues with them & use a good contact cleaner/lube spray, I’ve done many...

Given that the servos are the same mount wise & same style of stepper motor, why would you have concerns ?

2020 to Port 5, 430W only to the Arinc Converter as per the install manual including the diagram - please read it as it’s very simply shown. BTW, you have downloaded the latest version ?

My method is to update each screen independently, with the other one powered off, then do a system configuration- works for me ;)

the change back to yellow would be nice, IMO.

ah...another story ?? didn't hear about that one:oops: