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Maybe it’s just running off the internal battery, if one is fitted. What volts are being displayed when engine running ?

Sunfish - what I like about the Dynon ADSB IN is that it not only shows a ‘target’ is it also displays what height it’s above & below, what direction it’s moving in relation to you & if it’s climbing & descending, with arrows & some numbers on the display. On top of that it shows the call sign...

The Dynon generic Servo Mounting Kit has 1 in it.

FWIW- I've never seen any rpm fluctuations with the electronic ignitions eg LSE or P-Mags. Mechanical tach output (cable driven rpm) can be problematic & are unreliable IMO, I've had many customers say theirs under/over read by ~100 rpm, use a good tach tool to confirm that what the gauge shows...

In that case probably you'll only get good tach info from the LSE. How many hours on the slick ?

As an aside, for others reading this - If you have just 1 x P-Mag then all you need is the1 x tach output wire from it only (regardless of what # 2 ignition system is installed) for rpm display - you don't need 2 x tach outputs in that case & no need for resistors.

If it’s an EMS sensor then a simple low cost molex one should do. Mate-N-LOK Series, eg p/ n 1-480305-0.

FYI - you don’t need the resistors for LSE or P-Mags, which of those or other type do you have ?

Maybe the intercom was not on ?

Any particular reason why you went that high with the resistor value ? Except for the Lyc 540's Ive never seen the need to go above 30 K oHm for Lycomings or their clones.

I find the problem is usually with the connector between the probe & EGT/CHT loom, try re crimping those connections with a double jawed crimper & also spraying the connections with contact cleaner (I've known of some people, including A&P's use the cheaper automotive crimpers).

Maybe the Coriolis force is having an impact down under 😂

AFAIK when the SV is only using the SV-BAT-320 all the devices on the network will have power through the network however if any of those other devices also have a ships power input then they will not function eg SV-COM display will light up but the Com will not operate, same applies to the...

Stuc usually means the PTT line is grounded or connected to an incorrect position, despite what the pinouts show - it’s easy to mistakenly put a pin where it’s not meant to be - many of us have done that ;)

Why would you not go for magnetic ? Same as for the ‘whiskey’ compass 🙃

....or you could have a simple remote toggle switch (eg,mounted behind the panel) in series with the batt master switch - nothing can be turned on that way so no flat battery either ;)

Dennis - just a thought here. What software version do you have in the EFIS ?

"Had to install the probe inboard of the aileron bell crank/rib to mitigate interference with the left wing tie down rope" FWIW - I've been installing the pitot in the outboard inspection panels since 1990 without any issues with tie downs. Straight down from the ring to a cable or at an acute...

The only way I'd have a starter switch on the stick is if it's connected to a VPX system as it automatically disables the starter circuit above 500 rpm, people can & do forget to use other 'isolate' methods. likewise with the flaps, it's impossible to lower the flaps when you are above the max...

IMO the Knob Panel is one of those items that once used most people would not go back & operate without it, relatively cheap at $220 too & simple to 'plug & play' with the rest of the network items :cool: