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The SV unit is a completely different box & not at all compatible.

Did you reconfigure the system for the Kavlico sensors ? " I then checked the voltage to the units; 4.4 volts. " - which wire ? Where did you connect the red wire on each sensor to ? "During all testing, both units were unplugged". - volts testing, correct ?

They are a common cause of audio issues - best when troubleshooting is to disconnect everything at the beginning or one at a time to find the culprit ;)

http://dynonavionics.com/public_html/yabbfiles/Attachments/101320-027_-_REV_AB_-_CUST_DOC_GUIDE_INSTALL_SKYVIEW.pdf Check out page 12-7, although its for the SV its still just ARINC so that should work. ;)

http://www.dynonavionics.com/includes/guides/EFIS-D10A_Installation_Guide_Rev_J.pdf Check out pages 7-14 to 7-20 - they should have all the info you need . This may help re Glideslope question -- http://www.dynonavionics.com/autopilot-overview.php

The fault is MOST likely the crimp connectors at the probe/loom junction especially if they are the pink coloured ones supplied.  If they are pink then I'd replace them with the AMP brand (red).  In my experience the CHT probes do not 'fail'. You are using a good double jawed crimper, correct ?

Tim, if you are using the Ray Allen trim motor then trim relays are NOT required r ;)

I'd swap over the motor wires to Motor 2, that's a simple check to prove whether you do have a problem with the AP panel.  If it works with motor 2 then you most likely have a defective panel however if you get the same fault then maybe it could be another problem altogether.

Thank you for the feedback - it may help others when troubleshooting an 'issue' ;)

Not ideal, I'd go for at least 18" - what i'd do is move a lump of steel (or servo) around at the same distance as the existing one (with the SV powered up) & see what changes if any it has with compass headings. you may need to buy a SV-MAG-236 remote if there are issues.

.10" should do it ;)

send me a pm if you want to.

Terry - I'd say the emphasis here is making sure the pins are properly seated, using a gentle wire pull test, into the dsub connectors :)

DanF - if you can remove the antenna without 'disturbing' the paint then I'd do that & cut the 4 x wires, reconnect with male/female 9pin dsub connectors (sans backshells) to the 2020 antenna. You may have enlarge the hole but it will be covered by the antenna anyway & no obvious affect on the...

"Dirty' ripple current from the PM alternator ? Did you install the B&C PM filter unit as I mentioned in a previous post ?

Absolutely ok To do that [ch128521]

Just maybe you were counting from the incorrect end of the dsub - can accidentally happen ;). Been there :D

robint - yes that is what I'm suggesting is a possibility here, it has happened to another poster here. Short version is his mag was bench tested & found to be ok however fitting another mag fixed the problem. Fitting the P-Lead Tach unit may be the most cost effective way of stabilising the tach.

Robin I know of a mag in an IO-540 that had similar problems with one mag but have not seen that in the O-320 (had 2 of those for 20 years) - From my experience you should not have to have wildly different resistors between the 2 mags - I'd pull the LH one & get it checked out. In recent times...

Totally agree Vern.  Although photos were asked for they were not available to see the now obvious part of the problem. It is probably useful to mention now that if you have anything other than a totally aluminum airframe it would be wise to ground the case of most avionics & any seperate...