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Most cost effective- keep D180 & Magnetometer but remove the AP74, some wiring changes will be needed. Buy HDX later as mentioned. SV does not have an included radio, it is separate. Buy PAR200A radio/Audio panel or buy SV Com but you will need to add an Intercom & do some switching, PAR...

Did you follow the instructions in the install manual ? Are both screens audio wires connected to the audio input source (Com) ? Was an audio setup done & tested ?

;D

IMO that will be a winner for those who want dual screens but are unable to have both as 10" units 8-)

After having wired 35 RV's I'll second that ;) My recommendation for any RV (& most experimentals) is to have at least some vent grilles in the glareshield to dissipate the heat bubble build up behind the instrument panel.

Hi Eric I'm still travelling home from OSH, will reply on a day or two ;)

Hey Eric, no problems doing that from my perspective. Whatever finally fixes it is what matters, you/we'll get this resolved eventually to get it all running again properly as it should ;)

As DS said (I didn't explain it well) the SV screen software has to be at least the same level as the servo or a higher level, then do a system configuration ( with everything Dynon powered up). Then it will work as advertised  ;) Normally other added Dynon products have an earlier version than...

Eric, bear with me on this as efficient & effective troubleshooting needs considered questions. 1. Although the 'system' was working very well for the 300 + hrs, it didn't recently & that is the issue - problems like that don't 'fix' themselves, they just stay hidden in the background until next...

Normally 'most' of these symptoms are usually due to antenna cabling/connections/ groundplane issues. Or you could have some problems due ignition system & maybe a Dynon problem (last option). 1. What type of coax cable was used ? Eg, RG400 ( or another with high density shield ? 2. Is the BNC...

I would just press the update button on lower right side of EFIS  ;) (make sure the servos are powered up first & use the latest software update for the whole system)

Generally, all things being equal, an inflight cal will improve things. FWIW I aim for the mounting of ADAHRS (or Magnetometer wit legacy units) to be within .1 of a degree laterally & horizontally - not saying this is essential but I've never had a cal issue using this method  ;)

Its the level near the bottom of the tank that concerns me, that's where gauging is more important IMO. ;)

I'd recommend that you redo your small terminal (shunt) crimps & use internal star washers where you can, this is the area that usually is the cause of those issues IMO. KR knows I do a lot of installs & I don't have those issues since using the above method ;)

Glad you got it sorted, IMO it had to be something simple ;)

bobl Do you know if the 480 will work with the SV Txpndr for ADSB OUT ?

Frank, Parallel all the audio wires to 1 unswitched input.

Correct, except that it is supposed to output NMEA ;)

Bob, Subsequent to our discussion last night - this is a known problem I believe. It appears that the NMEA datastream from the GRT is not correct but I'm sure they will fix it ;)

I find the safest method is to use a ground wire that terminates in the Dynon connector, you can parallel the one from another sensor if you wish. ;)