Search results

Just a couple of points here given that I’ve had a bit of experience with over 70 installs 🙄. OLC’s work,but are fiddly with the very small grub screws & the joints need heat shrink to insulate them. Those very small grub screws can be very hard to find if you drop them. Correct re the pink...

Generally the RS232 or NMEA data out can be split around 4 ways & you can configure the Dynon port for basic or full/advanced data output - not sure if the datastream will do what you need ,maybe support will chime in here ? Would be useful to know for 'Experimental' market anyway.

Bruce - I usually give the wing a thump above the sensor (Float types) after adding fuel at each step of the fill - it does help to mitigate the hysteresis inherent with the float type units.

Do you have a fuel flow unit installed? IMO a ’calibrated’ Fuel Flow computer is the best insurance against notoriously inaccurate fuel gauges. ’we’, in Oz are required to have fuel gauges however a lot of pilots don’t trust them & rely on the Fuel Flow computer. YMMV 😉 ps - with a fuel computer...

Is your a/pilot involved with the recent SB ? Worth a look ;)

Another method that is useful for those who have a fixed compass - use it as the reference & note what RV8JD says above. 😉

Reasonable price . Good luck with that, Boeing now also bought OzRunways so there is less incentive for competition on their part IMO.

FYI - I’d be trying to better that - it’s easily possible to get that to within a 1/4 gallon, just saying, if you want to. ;)

Rhino - if you think that is WOW then check out what we get - add extreme shipping prices to that.:oops:

.... and you can monitor the Standby freq plus have FTLA + IFD100 (App) control & display on an iPad etc, etc - just google the IFD to GTN comparisons & see what's different.

If it’s a Lycoming or clone then check the resistor (should be ~30kOhm) in the wires tach wires (green/white or blue/white) going from the Dynon EMS to each P-lead.

There are several possibilities here - Did you have this issue before you installed the loaner HDX? ’Test’ outside the hangar (faraday cage if it’s steel) first, before replacing components/avionics. Coax RG400 or equivalent ? 5volt power supply for iPad etc ? If yes then disconnect it to...

Jeff - no need to change the shunt wiring shown in the EMS section in the Dynon install manual as you probably have a switch for alt 1 or alt 2 ie not both on at the same time. That way when you switch to alt 2 ( Monkworkz) it will read it’s current & same applies to alt 1 (B&C). pm if you wish.

First thing to do is make sure you have an ethernet cable conn to both screens & the ADSB unit is also connected to them as well using the same serial port number.

If you want to absolutely confirm where the problem is just put the probe (you’d have to remove it anyway) in a container of water & blow into the pitot tube - if air bubbles come out of the screw holes then you have found & confirmed where the fault is.

I understand that however IF the original owner had a ‘sequence of fixes’ I’d suggest he had no idea about the ‘issue’ as a proper calibration of the system would only need to be done once. With respect pleas take the time to read the manual/s. Instant answers (gratification) will not help you...

Also please read the manuals first - if you still don’t ‘get it’ then at least you’ll be in a better position to reply to our questions. It therefore most likely will reduce the to/froing on this forum & get you a quicker solution. Please also post the solution to the ‘issue’ as it may help...

Maybe someone accidentally damaged the internal pitot tube when drilling holes, prior to tapping, for the attachment screws ?

Do you have 2 x Dynon radios fitted or other brands ?

One thing I try to remember is not assume anything - especially when troubleshooting ;)