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Jay, I'll try & contact them for you ;)

More than likely not possible in an RV 7/9 panel, just not the real estate available normally in addition to the 2x SVD1000's.

Wasn't there an aftermarket App that shows the EMS on iPad ?  It was on this forum some time ago called Skyview Assist. edit: found it here - https://skyviewassist.wordpress.com/

I'd keep it simpler, less chance of 'faults' that way. There are many ways to achieve a safe outcome, up to you which is suits your situation. If it was me I'd be doing the normal fuel calibration for each tank then set a low level fuel warning (RED colour) which starts at say 2 gals (so when...

IMO (politely) it would be best for you to get some more skilled local help - it will save a lot of time & frustration for you ;)

Yep, one for each screen fitted to give redundancy.

I'd do as you have suggested - add the 4 ish gal first & then do the individual fuel tank calibration as per SV procedure. From memory - SETUP MENU > EMS SETUP> HARDWARE CALIBRATION (instructions will be on the screen). Then add the 4 gal to the total fuel in the Fuel Flow computer. SETUP...

With the ongoing shutdown of NDB's & Vor's why would anyone make a 'new' Nav receiver ?

Avidyne too ;)

Get over it, or at least contact support directly. It's obvious the some of us 'posters' don't know the answer you want & insinuating Dynon uses smoke & mirrors doesn't help your cause, IMO.

Exactly !

Ok- if you face a situation where the main ground from engine to the ground bus is lost in a plastic plane then it won't start as there is generally no ground return path- unlike a 'metal' plane which can use control cables etc as they are attached to the airframe, then there can be issues like...

Does not make ANY difference, mine is 'plastic' too ;D Glasair IIS-FT

See my previous post.

FWIW the last sentence is correct. Additionally I add a second ground wire from engine to airframe ground - just to be sure, never have had any ground issues using that method ;)

I'm figuring it will be useable & useful for us Glasair guys too :)

Maarten, Check your pm - totally unrelated to this post :)

Whatever works for you is fine, just because it's so called 'plastic' (probably a more higher spec product than ordinary plastic, which is implied) doesn't mean it will have issues & worse off due temperature. If there is an event causing it to melt then you could have a more serious problem...

22awg is more than adequate. Another approach, to save the 'spare' serial port for later, could be to connect the E0-4 but not to the serial port & have a PLB (GPS type) as a personal backup. Much cheaper option than say the Kannad & you can use it for other activities too or carry it with you...

Opinion hasn't changed as these units are same as used in automobiles ;)