Search results

You should specify which electronic ignition. There are very different solutions depending on which one you have. On the P lead pickup you can put the 30K resistor on the switch on the P lead side, but not in series. One side of the resistor to the switch and the other side to the tach pickup...

Phenolic material would likely be a very good choice for the mounting base.

So you are building a Rans S-21. The ADAHARS do not share OAT information so you need one for each ADAHARS. You can use any good aviation wire to extend the wire. I put the probes on he underside of the wings on my RV10, outboard far enough to be sure the engine exhaust would not effect them...

I think the housing is pretty brittle. I permanently fixed mine by milling out a new housing out of Delrin. Certainly where it is mounted will make a lot of difference in service life. Mine has two #6 cables hooked to one side, one for each of my alternators and the shunt is mounted high and to...

Sorry, misunderstood that.

I had mine on the engine side of the firewall. Inside the cabin was a non starter because I have 2 alternators wired to one side of the shunt and I was not going to put 2 passthroughs for power through the firewall. I was very careful not to screw the shunt down tightly so that I would not put...

As I said, I had a new base milled out of a solid piece of Delrin. The base it comes with is very brittle. You may have some luck packing the back side of the new one full of cotton flox to re-enforce it.

I agree. I have a Dynon 3 screen EFIS in my RV10 with a Garmin GTN 650 for a VOR receiver, primarily used for an ILS, an IFR GPS and a backup com. The GTN 650 is capable of presenting an amazing amount of infirmation, but the screen is too small for any of it to be useful.

I was not aware that the Dynon ADSB could send traffic and weather to any Garmin device

Rhino is correct. It’s been a while since I installed my 3 HDX screen system with a Garmin GTN650 in my RV10 but I do remember naming the navigation sources so that they would be quick and easy to recognize. Any VOR receiver that is displayed will show up with a green needle instead of the...

I am guessing that you are interfacing a Garmin 175 with a HDX 1100 or 800. You will need the Dynon ARINC 429 module. Wire the GPS ARINC 429 outputs from the 175 wire to the Dynon ARINC 429 module, as well as the ARINC 429 outputs for the NAV receiver that you must be using. The 429 module plugs...

The type of ignition system you have does matter. With magnetos you need the P lead pickups and wire each tach input to a magneto with a 30K resistor so that you don’t lose your tach during magneto checks. The software needs to know how many pulses per engine rotation to read properly. This is...

I agree with you on using IAS to climb. In really smooth air it will work ok, but in the slightest turbulence it will pitch up and down hunting the selected airspeed. This was true in all the corporate jets I have flown as well. It’s not just a problem with the Dynon autopilot. I usually use...

The network connections (9 pin dsubs) carry most of the information between the screens. However anything that requires a serial port has to be wired to both screens as I recall from wiring in my 3 screen system 2 years ago. The Dynon GPS antenna, Transponder and ADSB all require serial ports as...

Yes. You have to connect the ARINC 429 outputs from the Garmin 175 to the SV-ARINC-429. From there it plugs into the network and is available on all screens installed.

They don’t last forever, but one thing that can diminish their life is drilling a hole that is too small in the exhaust pipe. As the tube heats up the hole gets smaller pinching the probe. Make sure the holes are the size Dynon specified.

The Skyview navigation system is not certified for IFR so a simulator using Skyview displays would not be that helpful. What you really need to make friends with us the IFR navigator you will be using. Any simulator that uses the vertical tapes for airspeed and altitude will get your brain...

Just make sure your wiring is correct. Programing all the variables is actually fairly easy and if you make any mistakes you can fix them quickly. The wiring is harder to fix. It is helpful to have a list of all the engine limitations and airspeed limitations before you start. The EMS display...

I would agree. It makes no sense to me at all. It’s just what I observed as I was trying to solve my problem. The Tech Support people at Dynon don’t know why either. Perhaps there was some line of code that got corrupted somehow and the software update fixed it. The software update also removed...

I did all that and it still would not work right without the last software update from Dynon.