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That is a good question. I had to install the sensor file again after the latest software update.

First of all I would make sure you have the latest software installed on your EFIS. I installed the Aithre EX2.0 C0 detector. It has to be wired to an “enhanced” lead on the EMS. I used pin 31. If that is not available check the Dynon EMS manual for which ones are “enhanced”. You have to load...

Sounds like a good solution for your purposes. I have a EarthX battery in my RV10. I have a 9amp battery charger I can plug in for charging the battery and updating software and databases.

The Dynon Skyview system is the one displayed in the box to the right of the EHSI. If you want to use the Garmin 175 you have to switch to it. On the HDX1100 I just touch the box that displays the NAV source to change which source I am using. On your system you will have to look at the user...

That was a good idea for software and NAV database updates.

I would put in a cable for external power. My battery is on the firewall so I ran a plug up near the oil door with a 15 amp fuse on it. My charger puts out 9 amps so it is never a problem.

Just out of curiosity what aircraft is this installed in? I have an RV10 and I fly approaches at 100 kts. I can slow down to land easily from 200 feet. Remember that light planes are the slowest thing on the approach. The slower jets are flying an ILS or LPV approach at 110-120. I know because...

I have a Garmin GTN650 that displays on the EHSI on the Skyview. Like the photo above the NAV source is displayed to the right of the EHSI there is never any doubt about which NAV source is being used. The NAV source displayed is running glide slope too. You can’t get information from both...

I have had the Dynon 60 amp shunt break around the mounting holes twice in 330 hours. It is attached to the fire wall high on the right of my RV10. I was especially careful about mounting it the second time to make sure there was no extra pressure on it. This time I got a friend with an end mill...

Thanks for pointing that out. I lost track of who was posting. I just got rotator cuff surgery a few days ago so I am probably not that attentive. I am thinking that if the voltage leads were hooked up backwards it should still work. You would just get minus amps instead of plus amps. However...

This is most puzzling. With what I see in the screen shot and your description of the wiring it should work fine. Pin 24 should be wired to the alternator side of the shunt and 25 to the opposite side. I am guessing that you already verified that. The only other thing that comes to mind is if...

There is nothing wrong with using the short 26 gauge wire as fuseable links if they are close to the shunt. I don’t like that method from a maintenance point of view but from a safety point of view that will work as the 26 gauge wire will burn through quickly in the case of a direct short.

A most odd occurrence. Perhaps some goofy thing happened with a software upgrade. I have a VPX Pro in my RV10 and never had any problems with the interface in 330 hours so far.

I don’t really like that choice much because you are using the 26 gauge wire as a fuse. If there is a short I would rather find the short and replace the fuse that replace the wire. How many inches of 26 gauge wire did you use? Is it attached directly to the shunt, with larger wire after that...

Go to the RVDAN explained exactly how things work when wired as a load meter. However if you have an open circuit on one of the voltmeters I am uncertain what you will see. It would depend on the software engineers choices since what comes out the other end is digital instead of analog. What...

Well I am going to do the upgrade soon so I will look out for that.

I have been using SA for a little less than a year. I have the latest chart manager. It is a bit slow to update, but I really like being able to display the charts on my Dynon HDX1100 screens. I also download everything available.

Do you have the backup battery for the D1000

Go to the EMS screen editor for the mode you are in (100%, 50% or bottom band) and start looking at instruments that are listed that are not displayed properly. If in doubt go into edit and move a few until you find the one you are looking at. You probably have something displayed that isn’t...

Is the shunt wired as a load meter (load from alternator goes through it) or is it wired between the battery and the and the main bus so it tells you amps in and out of the battery?