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Guys and girls......... The delay has been due to feature addition and testing. Problem is in my opinion too many noisy requests for things we dont really need, but thats a whole other argument. COVID smashed the NW of the USA, remote working, changing the factory to have everyone spread out a...

Paul, BIG MISTAKE That servo will have to go back to Dynon to be recalibrated. You cannot open them up and monkey around and put them back together. I am not sure if there is another fault that you have not found but that servo is now toast. Yes I am serious and no.....I am not kidding. (just...

I have only ever seen one failure, and it was the crimped power connector. Take a really close look at that. You might find that is the most likely point of failure.

Faulty pins/connection maybe? Or maybe the input is fried in the unit.

No. Not at present anyway.

There is not requirement at all for the dimmer input. The manual states connection to one screen only. I have never used this function so I can't say how obvious the backlight function is.

It is a random fault, some batch of solid state disk drives cause it from memory....or something like that. Time for a quick holiday back at the factory for fix.

You can sell it :)

Not that I am aware of. Why not use the Dynon supplied transponder and the SV-ADSB-472, which probably costs less than the GTX345, and it has all the seamless integration with the HDX that you could want. Using the GTX would be a bad idea in my opinion.

K type

They are a J type thermocouple.

Funny you guys are complaining. I never see glare or reflection as a problem in the RV10. Nor any of the others I have installed. I do find that photos can show it up far worse than real life though. YMMV

Have you pulled the arm or capstan disc off and physically inspected the shear screw. Just because you can see the head, and it seems to work on the ground does not mean it is not broken. When they break there is often enough broken screw to still provide enough friction to make the ailerons...

Should have asked me earlier ;-) Check ya email

I assume you have boost pumps at the tank end and not a pump up front sucking fuel all the way to the engine bay? I know you are smarter than the average bear so I guess my assumption is correct. For anyone reading, this is critical.

Kelly, yes the octane number for car gas ion the USA is AKI or R+M/2 and in terms of MON it is about 85-86. 100LL is typically 101.5-102 MON, so 15-17 points of MON number. The biggest threat from mogas is the RVP (Reid Vapour Pressure) which can be quite variable throughout the year.

No problem with your CHTs, more OWT's being created. And yes the BMP works. Remember this is exactly what they did with the big Wright 3350's ....a 10% BMEP drop it was called.

Nothing wrong with even running your RED up to that 13.5 mark, but you may get nuisance alarms, as any measuring device is not going to be 0.1v perfect unless its a Fluke meter and calibrated. I like a small margin and if the resting voltage is 13.3, once loaded up it will dip into the YEL...

Articles #63 to #66 https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-index/

Kelly, that would make a great talking point indeed. And you are correct, Walter Atkinson would have said, as we teach and demonstrate in class, a normally aspirated "Conforming Engine" running on "Conforming fuel" (avgas) cannot have detonation supported. Different in an engine with advanced...