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Not polarity sensitive - I‘d recheck or redo the connection.

First easy thing I‘d do is connect tubing to the outflow side of the cube & have it go to a container. turn the electric pump ON & after 1,2,3, or however minutes you want. Then turn it off. Measure the amount of fuel that flowed out & do the maths also using the data from the computer. That...

Yes 😉

Problem with testing is that the 'warning' message will only come on when it actually is stuck on & the VPX sees more than 500 rpm - you could spend a bit of effort simulating that but not worth the effort IMO. FWIW the VPX has not had a software update for at least ~12 years - that' a record...

If you connect the wire, with supplied resistor in line, from the starter motor side of the solenoid direct to VPX J2 pin 11 it will work. That’s all you need to do.

Read post #5 - you are missing something. It will not show a line fully across the display when on glideslope ?

Nope - done many installs. Hope it works out ok for you 😉

I know I'm late to the party & I could be wrong - Isn't the power to the fuel flow cube a regulated 12V- not 5 volt? I've never measured it.

-99 = a disconnect, ie a bad join or probe. I should add - Check the pins in the connector as they will move in/ out like pistons when you flex the cable sideways close to the connector. Many years ago I removed the back shell & heatshrink from the loom, then individually bent each wire to the...

Didn't I say that in post #15 ? :oops: maybe it's something to do with the coriolis force. :rolleyes:

What seems strange to me that several people are talking about the volume only setting, why ? My volume is set at ~85% & I usually change the AOA percentage of actual 'stall' (AOA break) to something like 65 % - no issues with audio & I've done a lot of installs however YMMV with the audio. btw...

My apologies, IMO it wasn’t clear enough about your situation- it appeared to me that you moved on to another solution rather than do the simple task.😔

With respect - 'the man' (Don) said "Lower the starting percentage way down to see if audio works" - at least do that first.:rolleyes:

I forgot to add- I always check power & grounds first before powering anything up. We’re all cable of having a ‘bad day’, don’t ask how I know as it happened a long time ago & I‘ve done ~ 50 installs since, certainly made me more careful since. Serial & Arinc data cabling is not normally an...

IMO the issue is in the wiring somewhere, I’ve done a lot of VPX installs & never had a fault in the unit itself. The current software version has been in place for ~ 10 years so that shows it’s ‘maturity’. I’d unplug all the devices connected, except for 1 x screen, & plug them in again 1 at a...

Merry Xmas 😉

Re the audio panel side of the install - you don’t need one if space/ cost is a factor, I’ve used these https://makerplane.org/download/amx-2a/ for several installs & they work well. If you have 2 x radios all you need extra is a 3PDT switch for Com 1/ Com 2 & use a simple 10K pot where/ if...

Ok, I was wrong - problem is you have 6 x thermocouples showing on screen yet your engine has only 4 - there is a dis connect here. I’ll PM you if thats ok ? Or just ignore 😉

I only seen you issue once before & ironically it was on a 6 cyl Lycoming too, here is a link to a device that will ‘stabilise‘ the rpm’s https://store.makerplane.org/magneto-p-lead-tachometer-signal-stabilizer-p-tach/

whether you have magnetos ( as stated) or electronic ’mags’ then there is no need for a tach transducer with the Dynon EMS or the legacy units.