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Marc - with respect, I think there is something going on in your case that is causing the issues you’ve had. My comments are based on experience with ~ 50 RVs installs, never had 1 compass calibration fail & my own aircraft as well as others I’ve done are composite too.

All bets are off until after you do the inflight calibration - the precision after that is amazing. Just throw it around in left/right hand orbits until you are well over the 100 on the counter, you will be rewarded.

Sensor bad is unlikely IF it's the Ray Allen POS-12, unless it has been damaged. A picture of the sensor install would/could be very helpful. Is the sensor wired to operate via an EFIS ? which brand ?, or via a bus system like the VP-X ?

# 1 - it's always your choice - there's a school of thought that says get the best you can afford. I've had the Classic system & now have the HDX for the last 200+ hrs & never regretted it. # 2 Negative, you don't need the Gps 2020 as the 'approved' position source for ADSB OUT can be via a Tso...

FWIW - the serial (2 wire) cable can be twisted or a shielded pair, which is also twisted by default - all standard industry practice. Safer to do it That way ;)

Yes, serial number is on the invoice normally. just out of curiosity - who wants that info ? SAAA, CASA ? Model & part number I can understand but requiring serial is something Ive not come across.

They are not exactly the same thing - The Dynon version of the Trig does not have the inbuilt encoder & there are other internal differences that preclude what you are trying to do. You could sell the Trig transponder & free up some panel space that way as well ;).

Sure can ! When it's done to the VPX you then need to to setup the EMS display & 'accept' the VPX widget/s. Jake Jansen

Maybe ... just ask Siri to do it.

On the inspection panel, makes for easier Pitot work if needed later.

Random, Here’s more on the EGT/CHT connectors, lost count on the numbers however I‘ve done at least 65 installs over various aircraft without changing to any other type of connector, I’ve only changed the manufacturer ( to AMP). Dynon had some time ago changed their probes & wiring from a...

Dynon has mostly supplied some ‘pink’ insulated ones ( IMO those are a cheap type) I actually throw them away & only use the AMP brand ones. There are other types better suited to thermocouple wires, a search of this site will give you more input. HTH

“Most aren't human readable and takes the engineers to sort through.“ That interesting & begs the question - you using AI instead of real people ? 😂

Maybe you have a USB power supply converter plugged in to your 12v socket regardless of it being actually connected to another device - thought I’d just mention this as some brands are known to cause problems. Disregard my comment if you don’t have one 😉

Sunfish - I have some info which will help & save you a heap of dollars, do you have my number ?

Mtb, 1. Have you tried hanging 3 fingers over the top of the glareshield To brace your hand & using index & thumb To control the knobs? 2. “ your head is primarily focussed on the outside” - good point, IMO that’s what matters most as you should let the AOA audio do its job without looking at a...

Fieldbaron - did you consider playing around with the sensor definitions to get the result you need ?

Corefile - Same principles apply regardless of carby or FI, carby type just has different air/fuel issues . David has excellent knowledge involving engine operation issues, especially fuel flow & WOT & LOP etc

Sure can just pm your number as my voip calls are very cheap 😉 or email Jake at aeroassist dot com dot au

Dan- you’ll need to go into the EMS Setup screen & ‘configure’ the Flap sensor regardless of whether you have the VPX fitted or not. HTH.