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;D Apologies, Yoda. I hadn't realised that this was an existing installation. Good luck finding the solution.

Standard response to this is to change the Radio coax cable from RG58 to RG400. Expensive, but very often clears the problem. About to do this when I change the RV's radio for an 8.33 spacing one as I sometimes get shock-cooling alarms off my D120 when I transmit.

It's done for pretty well every installation in the UK as we HAVE to have a minimum of ASI, Altimeter and magnetic compass in addition to an EFIS. Most people achieve this by T'ing the ASI and static lines between the steam gauges and the EFIS. Very few people, if any, install separate pitots...

Define 'perfect', please. And what engine are we talking of? A Lycoming or a Continental I would guess from having a PlanePower alternator, but we could do with confirmation. I have to admit to not being a Skyview expert, only a D series installer/user, but the above would enable the SV...

This setup isn't sat in a metal hangar, is it? It could wait forever for a GPS fix if it's stuck inside a Faraday cage! I can't get a GPS fix in my attic because the insulation foam has a foil film on it. Just though I'd throw that one in... :D

I had a plane like that once... ;D

I never knew there was a Hall Effect ammeter option for my D120. Sounds waaaay more elegant than the shunt option. Oh well! One lives and learns! ::)

Thanks to all for the input on this thread. My kit is quite new, but a friend's D10A / EDC10A setup may well fall within the SB's timescale and he / we are about to put an OAT into the setup. He's just discovered the winds aloft and TAS capabilities of the setup after I fitted my D100/D120/AP74...

Are the antenna leads RG58 or RG400? RG58 is leakier than the more expensive RG400. I need to change mine to hopefully correct an issue with a shock cooling alarm on cylinder 3 when transmitting at the lower end of the radio frequency range. That'll get done soon as part of the same 8.33khz...

I consider myself both enlightened :) and told off :-? . Best advice is probably to fly more often. ;)

Is the EFIS a D10 or D10A? Uh-oh!

Sounds like you need to connect the keep-alive line (pin 2 on the 25 way d-sub) to the main aircraft battery, via a suitably small fuse. I believe that should keep the internal battery charged. I do know it's advised to NOT connect it in the manual, but that's only an advisory. I guess your...

Fitted the D100 and went with the AP74 option. Knob works and the system talks to me. Still working out whether the dimmer works or not  :-? Just need to buy the servos now, but I think the CAA will want me to spend my money on a new radio and ADSB transponder first.  >:( Thanks for the advice.

The bracket for the servo has been fixed in the right place, hasn't it? Not too far away from the bell crank?

Thanks. :)

Embarking on a D100 + D120 + AP74 + Servos installation and wondering how critical it is that the DSAB pair is twisted? If it is necessary then how tightly twisted? A twist pitch / ratio of once per inch? More tightly? Less? Am I looking into this too deeply? Maybe, but I only want to do the...

Most people 'in the know' avoid Windows 10 like the plague!  ::) A word to the wise: sticking an angry face on a post is a sure way to make sure people stay 'on vacation'! Not bothering to say whether you've tried what the nice chaps at Dynon Support have suggested (Reply #12) doesn't help...

You don't say whether you are using a Dynon EFIS to control Dynon AP Servos. If you are not then you are probably on the wrong forum.

With Windoze 10 is there the potential to get the wrong drivers, mixing up 32 and 64 bit ones, as there is with 7? Just a thought!

I'll come clean and say I'm not certain, but... Personally I would make sure the FT-60 Fred Cube only uses lines direct from the EMS to be absolutely certain that the clean 12v supply the EMS supplies doesn't get corrupted by a noisy ground. On my EMS installation for a number of grounds I ran...