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Rhino - if you think that is WOW then check out what we get - add extreme shipping prices to that.:oops:

.... and you can monitor the Standby freq plus have FTLA + IFD100 (App) control & display on an iPad etc, etc - just google the IFD to GTN comparisons & see what's different.

If it’s a Lycoming or clone then check the resistor (should be ~30kOhm) in the wires tach wires (green/white or blue/white) going from the Dynon EMS to each P-lead.

There are several possibilities here - Did you have this issue before you installed the loaner HDX? ’Test’ outside the hangar (faraday cage if it’s steel) first, before replacing components/avionics. Coax RG400 or equivalent ? 5volt power supply for iPad etc ? If yes then disconnect it to...

Jeff - no need to change the shunt wiring shown in the EMS section in the Dynon install manual as you probably have a switch for alt 1 or alt 2 ie not both on at the same time. That way when you switch to alt 2 ( Monkworkz) it will read it’s current & same applies to alt 1 (B&C). pm if you wish.

First thing to do is make sure you have an ethernet cable conn to both screens & the ADSB unit is also connected to them as well using the same serial port number.

If you want to absolutely confirm where the problem is just put the probe (you’d have to remove it anyway) in a container of water & blow into the pitot tube - if air bubbles come out of the screw holes then you have found & confirmed where the fault is.

I understand that however IF the original owner had a ‘sequence of fixes’ I’d suggest he had no idea about the ‘issue’ as a proper calibration of the system would only need to be done once. With respect pleas take the time to read the manual/s. Instant answers (gratification) will not help you...

Also please read the manuals first - if you still don’t ‘get it’ then at least you’ll be in a better position to reply to our questions. It therefore most likely will reduce the to/froing on this forum & get you a quicker solution. Please also post the solution to the ‘issue’ as it may help...

Maybe someone accidentally damaged the internal pitot tube when drilling holes, prior to tapping, for the attachment screws ?

Do you have 2 x Dynon radios fitted or other brands ?

One thing I try to remember is not assume anything - especially when troubleshooting ;)

re Configurating network is the first action I do when I re install devices, sometimes the software versions are different/newer to what what’s already there YMMV 😉 HTH.

What brand/ model of intercom do you have ? If you have a 12v/5volt socket for ipad/iphone or other use ? If so, unplug/ disconnect it completely & advise if that makes a difference 😉

Sounds like a job for the FDS AP-60 ? I've always used a 'pot' on a single audio output, remote mounted & cable tied to the loom, works well, YMMV.

Come on guys, you’re making a mountain out of a mole hill, it’s much easier to use what you’ve got to work with without soldering 😉. The 2 twisted wires (22 awg) easily fit into the VPX pins (some circuits go to 15amps) as they are suitable for up to 16 awg - NO soldering required & you have a...

Basically - impractical & unable to do that = 2 different operating systems & reconfigure/recalibrate would be required each time you switched over. Just decide which Dynon system you want (I'd go for the HDX) to operate the servos & leave it at that or sell the legacy system & just use the HDX...

Scott, I have a led but not sure whether it’s on pin 13 or 14. - I’ll be back at the plane on Monday if you need to know & can advise if you want.

I have the same setup but with externally regulated alternator & Odyssey battery. I didn’t connect most of the optional in/outputs as the Dynon EMS shunt etc does all I need it to do, couldn’t see the need for any doubling up which could take more time with troubleshooting if any faults show...

You could stay with the Dynons powered via the avionics switch & just boot up 1 x Dynon via its backup battery. Personally, & on all the installs I've done, I'd just have the Dynons power up with the master on as per the OP. If you're concerned about battery drain then maybe just have 1 Dynon...