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I use the BTW all the time in AP TRK mode. This will take you directly there without having to navigate back to the GPS magenta line for NAV mode.

I need to switch to those transducers, I guess. Are you using the Vans capacitance plates or the Princeton units?

You can safely run all the wires together. My XPNDR antenna is on the right, in front of the spar, and protected by the gear weldment. Same on the left for my ADS-B-IN antenna. Comm antenna runs down the right with the XPNDR and wing wires while left wing pitot heat runs with the wires on that...

I'll double-check the manual but I believe it is Orange = 12v (hot), Blue = Sense (wired to EMS) and Black = Ground The white wires will need to be traced (ring out with meter) to their destinations. Also confirm the black wire from airframe goes to ground. Also, depending on distance, Positive...

My RV-7A has capacitance senders in the tanks and almost always wrong. I've tweaked them in flight as fuel is burned and the totalizer (Red Cube) shows fuel used. They're much better than after calibration but I still only trust the totalizer.

@Grizzly I just had my right screen repaired for the same reason (it progressively got worse). Shipping from east coast US to west coast was about $50. Flat repair cost was $450. It came back looking brand new (had some paint chipped off the front bezel when it went in).

@lancair360. I have a copy of the 175 install manual. PM me if you want a copy.

If you want to control the boxes via Skyview, you'll need to purchase the Dynon version of the radio and transponder. You'll still require the radio control head in the panel but not the transponder.

I just reported the account responsible.

The SL-30 is what gets you IFR capabilities. The transponder is also required for flight in certain airspace and ADS-B out. The GPS-2020 is needed for ADS-B out as the position source.

I see that when switching between FF and other apps (e.g. music). If it doesn't continue showing ADSB data, I have to restart FF to get it to connect again but it usually reconnects on its own.

Works for me, as well. I can't say I've tried viewing cloud tops but its in the data and might just work.

I did a very crude ground calibration using my iPhone, then did the inflight calibration. No issues in the past 3.7 years. AD-AHRS mounted in the tail of my RV-7A.

Not a bureaucratic thing. The WAAS GPS is the position source only and the least expensive part of the equation. The software and databases are what take tons of time and money to validate.

The Classic screens come with the touch option as well. I plan to upgrade my D1000T screens to HDX and sell my current screens to the highest bidder.

Several threads on this issue, which is now known as the rainbow screen of death (RSOD). I just sent my right screen in for repair after it did the same and was getting worse (happening more often). Unfortunately mine was about a year outside the warranty window. It won't get better on its own...

No need for the dimmer wire connection. It is only needed if you do not have a Skyview screen, which will control the intercom backlighting automatically, just as it does the other optional panel boxes.

If you install the 7", I'd use it primarily for engine monitor information, so you can maximize your 10" for PFD/MAP. If you use the iPad, it would be for a passenger and possible backup should your primary screen fail. I have dual 10" SV1000T screens and plan to install an IFD-440 for IFR ops...

I have heard the complaint about Dynon being a closed system for ADS-B in, as well, but it works great for me with ForeFlight (and other) phone/tablet apps using the inexpensive ADSB-472. The only reason I care to display traffic on the iPhone/iPad, is the improved traffic callouts that...

You'll need the Dynon ADS-B in box (472) for display of traffic and WX on the HDX. The Dynon transponder wouldn't do you any good, even if you installed it (out only).