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Not at this stage   ;) only possible withe the Classis SV.

Q - is it a dual SV Classic system or single screen ?

FWIW - I’ve seen that happen with the TNC connector being screwed on, but not tight enough, at the Transponder end.

If that is the case then I’m guessing it’s a pressure system design issue however it’s hard to know not being there [ch128521] Please post your findings here when you get a resolution to the issue - it may help others too.

The pressure that you are seeing on the ground - is that what is expected ? Hot or cold oil ? If yes then I think the next check is what you’ve already worked out, use a mechanical gauge ( calibrated is best) to confirm or not whether what is displaying on the Dynon is correct. The correct...

My reply #8 suggested the mechanical gauge check & finally you state there are fluctuations still using that method - although many parts have been replaced the ‘fault’ still exists. I would not fly with this engine until the cause is found.

FWIW I set my ‘warn’ low volts at 13 (red) so that if an alternator fails in flight I’ll know immediately [ch128521] & have the alarm set to ‘latching’.

That may be a voltage issue. Is it installed & what is the system volts ? Did you also check it out by removing the backup battery, if fitted ?

For this you need to have direct contact with Dynon support by either email or phone, they’ll need to know the serial number too.

If you are unable to fault the wiring then I'd suggest as per my reply post#1 use a mechanical gauge to see if the fluctuations still exist - if they do then you have a problem somewhere else & not with the electric/electronics IMO. Any pressure gauge will do (provided it can handle the normal...

The Rotax sensor is wired as per the manual. It’s not identical. Kavlico is wired as per instructions & no resistor  :) When you are changing anything, regardless of manufacturer, you should always get & use the latest available data.

The power wire into the Kavlico sensor needs to be the 5volt wire (paired with the Map sensor if fitted) white/red stripe & remove the resistor as it’s not used with the Kavlico - Dynon May chime in here ;)

Not sure what is going on there however if you did actually use the Kavlico unit then the red wire (Kavlico) needs to go to pin 18 D37 (5volts only). Did you replace & solder in a new 200 oHm resistor, just in case it got damaged/broken ? I'd try connecting up a mechanical gauge to the same...

Richard, I have had something similar happen recently, it sounded like very faint music & I just dismissed it as a 'bleed through' from a local radio station - maybe there is more to it ? I'll now be more aware of it & will report if i find anything.

The answer is in Dynon post above, IMO you don’t need more than that. ;)

If the resistor is ear the mag end then I’d check to see if it’s broken.

Try turning off each unit one at a time eg iPad, phone, nav 1, Nav 2 & then Dynon audio - you’ll work it out [ch128521]

I had asked the same question- having 2 pointers exactly the same colour can be also confusing despite 1 with a single arrow head & the other a dual arrowhead, would white work ? Green for Nav would align it with other makes of Nav receivers too, it’s called standardisation [ch128521]

I thought 'certified' was a retro grade step ;D ;D ;D

If you’re using the AMP brand I’ll guarantee they won’t go loose, actually they are very hard to take apart without breaking the wire - so I usually use tools to do the job of taking them apart if/when needed.