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That's not fair ::) - did you even bother to read the manual ? Info is on page 7-33 (rev O) as plain as daylight. Jake J

I've always used a 9 pin Dsub connector, crimp type, works well for me ;) Jake J

Maybe/ maybe not but it's simple & cheaper ;) Jake J

I've just sent you a PM

That oil won't be an issue - as you have a '9 I don't understand the comment about a backing plate, didn't you use a doubler rivetted to the skin ? & had made sure that the star washer was making a good contact (bonding) with the skin ? If you have a loose plate between the washer /nut  &...

Just a point - it may 'look' ok but the rod could be broken further in, you should check also with a multimeter especially if the rod is even slightly bent ;) Jake J

DS may have a better solution however a simple (read inexpensive) test would be to fit a clamp on ferrite at the Com antenna end, available from RadioShack or other electronics supplier. Jake J

If you had not changed anything & the system was working well it could be the coax or antenna, it's same as what can happen with any transmitting system - you can receive on a simple piece of wire but to transmit properly you must have a 'tuned' antenna. What type & model of transponder antenna...

Alex Just a thought - can you post a photo of your amp shunt as you have it wired ? Jake J

George This is a problem i have seen before & is most likely the wires retracted somewhat at the 25pin dsub connector end. If you disconnect it, & while holding the connector facing you, bend the loom firmly back & forth just behind the connector.  You should see the pins moving in & out so...

Steve The single conductor probe wire is a big issue IMO, they are too thin a gauge to just be inserted & crimped, I won't accept them as a good option, I cut the connectors off then double over the wire before fitting a new terminal - that fixes that problem. The multi strand type is much...

Steve "..it's the relative values/change in readings that matter" -- I'm very aware of this ;) Bear with me on this, please. Back on the 2nd Sept you mentioned a probe going to >1600F, I have seen them go to 2500 C which is impossible of course however it was a connector on the probe sidethat...

George I'd use a multimeter to 'bus' out those wires just to be sure, colours don't matter as it's where they end up that counts & they may have been changed. Jake j

Steve I understand the original question bit, maybe not all thermocouples are created equal ;) Did you by chance ever check your probe readings against a calibrated sensor ? If not then how do you know which is correct :-/ FYI - my comments were only generalisations & meant to be...

DS Steve W made this comment -  "Pretty much just like the one that went in, maybe a little bit of color change due to heat". In other words, it was intact in appearance, but failing in operation."  - that would indicate to me that most likely the actual probe has not failed but the connectors...

Jay FWIW- I've never soldered any thermocouple wires. ;) Jake J

This may help resolve the issues in some cases -  the supplied spade connectors are too solid ie they are very hard to crimp (even with a good quality crimper) & therefore do not crimp well.  I throw out the supplied 'pink' coloured ones & replace them with the red AMP ones.  There are several...

My preference is leaving the display options as they exist now, Portrait mode is better for the 'look ahead' IMO. I can live with the engine stuff in the vertical 20% screen, my ears will tell me if there may be a problem with the engine & it is a quick button press to get to 50% for more info...

DS - as a point of reference for Mode S Transponder users in Australia - we don't input VH (our equivalent to your 'N') into the setup parameters :) Jake J

Nice to know you read the manual as so many don't - understanding is another issue & I've also had difficulty understanding some manuals ;) I is the internal backup battery. E would be the 'old' keep alive circuit that's not used anymore. Jake J