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Ground work - 1. Set up the plane so that it’s level, use a laser or water level 2. If the skid ball is now in the centre you’re good to go, if not then make sure magnetometer is level using a digital level &, just to be sure, check the D10 is level too. 3. If that all checks out okay then.. 4...

First thing I’d do is make sure the CB is set at 5amp. ;)

You could install a 10 kOhm potentiometer in the stall warning output line & that will enable it to adjust the volume exactly to your liking. OTOH - why not just use the Dynon AOA ? IMO it’s a much better device for giving you warning of a critical situation regardless of weight, CofG ...

One way or another it is typically the grounding that causes squealing. Pm me if you wish & I’ll talk you through some troubleshooting- results can be posted on here later. Cheers, Jake Jansen Glasair IIS FT (2500 hrs)

We like to share the ‘fun’ around, glad to do that too  ;) don’t want to be a loner here. ;D Sorry about the question but I had to ask to be sure all bases were covered - it’s one of the characteristics of phone/online troubleshooting.

The Single Dynon shunt will show amps from either of the alternators. What switching method do you use when switching the alternators ( ‘field’ wire) between #1 & #2 ? Do you have 2 B&C Alternators & regulators ? [i]If I try to push a smaller current through the larger rated shunt it won’t...

I presume you did the hand held compass check for the mag 236 ? ;)

Steve, you have a great setup there in the B & C units, they are all I use & recommend nowadays as another brand & automove types caused too much grief & frustration for my customers. Also IMO I’d still just stay with the Dynon shunt & ditch the cheap Hall effect sensor.  The annunciator light...

In addition to my comment here is an idea (one of several possible) I’ve used before - FWIW- Put a double pole ON-Biased (mom) switch in the Dynon ammeter wires. It should be in the ON position for the main #1 Alt & pushed (it will spring back when you let it go) to the #2 Alt position to check...

Steve, If you have the system set up so that you can only switch between Alt #1 & Alt #2 (not both together) then you can use 1 shunt. Separate ANL fuses, or circuit breakers will be used on each alternators. I’m suspecting you have an issue with Alt 2 - did you check the field wiring etc &...

Simple - it’s called an AOA & it’s much better/safer & much much more reliable that last century’s basic stall warning. ;)

Move the transponder antenna - fairly obvious ;) There is no reason why you can’t move it forward, make a 6” square ground plane & sikaflex it to the top of the brakes/rudder pedal support ribs or at least in that area. PM me if you want more info. Jake Glasair IISFT

Quote -“UNLESS you have an extreme RF noise situation.” Yes that is one situation however I don’t want to have ANY possibility of that happening as ‘noise’ (in audio or electrical terms) can take a serious amount of time to troubleshoot. I have found that by using low loss coax, eg RG400, &...

Which side of the carbon fibre is the ground plane ? FWIW only use RG 400 or similar coax - this is the industry standard as it has really low loss due to the excellent shielding.

Come on Borge ::) be fair, YOU need to check that, it’s just a simple read of the pin outs for each connector. Surely you have the time to do that easy simple job?

Yes,it’s in the setup menus.

+1

You could set your VNE speed to a say 10 knot lower speed & that will give you the warning you seek ;)

It’s best if you contact support direct - I’d guess it needs to go back to Dynon for repair.

Yes it’ll work for the 335, try another setting other than 4 in the Dynon- that assumes you have the correct input set in the Garmin which can be any of the 3 x RS232 ones set at ALT FMT 3 25ft (page 6-6 of the Install manual). ;)