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Exactly as uniflying says, that's the way it has worked for me & I've done many, many installs without any serious issues.  In recent times I've sprayed the connections with LPS2 or 3 & Inox or Lanox - as we're talking millivolts here I find the 'sprays' reduce the possibility of oxidization...

old rotor sensor type installed at the firewall for protection against vibration, Rock stable values with the Dynon-Display. That is what all (should do IMO) lycoming/Continental owners do, engine vibrations are quite often stated by many as the cause of sensor failures. ;)

I would say yes, the system is designed to work in a similar way if one of the units ‘failed’ so that the other takes over. I’d just do a reconfiguration & you should be good to go.

I’ve been thinking some more on this ( that’s a worry  ;D) - In your dual engine installation my guess is - 1. do not use the Ethernet cable between the screens 2. disconnect #2 EMS module & #2 screen from the network. 3. Do a system config using #1 screen Then reverse that order for #2 screen...

Yes, contact support direct ;)

I’d use one of these. http://store.makerplane.org/5-channel-stereo-audio-mixer-amx-4a-4b/

I’d use a multimeter to determine which red goes to which pin, simple ;)

No separate wiring for # 2 ADAHRS, you can piggyback it onto the existing unit (Dynon sells a simple kit) or install it alongside the other one & add a splitter cable to 'splice' it into the system - then do a config & it should be good to go. Thats how mine is & works a treat ;)

Not at this stage   ;) only possible withe the Classis SV.

Q - is it a dual SV Classic system or single screen ?

FWIW - I’ve seen that happen with the TNC connector being screwed on, but not tight enough, at the Transponder end.

If that is the case then I’m guessing it’s a pressure system design issue however it’s hard to know not being there [ch128521] Please post your findings here when you get a resolution to the issue - it may help others too.

The pressure that you are seeing on the ground - is that what is expected ? Hot or cold oil ? If yes then I think the next check is what you’ve already worked out, use a mechanical gauge ( calibrated is best) to confirm or not whether what is displaying on the Dynon is correct. The correct...

My reply #8 suggested the mechanical gauge check & finally you state there are fluctuations still using that method - although many parts have been replaced the ‘fault’ still exists. I would not fly with this engine until the cause is found.

FWIW I set my ‘warn’ low volts at 13 (red) so that if an alternator fails in flight I’ll know immediately [ch128521] & have the alarm set to ‘latching’.

That may be a voltage issue. Is it installed & what is the system volts ? Did you also check it out by removing the backup battery, if fitted ?

For this you need to have direct contact with Dynon support by either email or phone, they’ll need to know the serial number too.

If you are unable to fault the wiring then I'd suggest as per my reply post#1 use a mechanical gauge to see if the fluctuations still exist - if they do then you have a problem somewhere else & not with the electric/electronics IMO. Any pressure gauge will do (provided it can handle the normal...

The Rotax sensor is wired as per the manual. It’s not identical. Kavlico is wired as per instructions & no resistor  :) When you are changing anything, regardless of manufacturer, you should always get & use the latest available data.

The power wire into the Kavlico sensor needs to be the 5volt wire (paired with the Map sensor if fitted) white/red stripe & remove the resistor as it’s not used with the Kavlico - Dynon May chime in here ;)