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Lynn, The AP Button panel optionally controls your trim servos, which also means it powers them. The voltage sent on either of the white wires to the trim servos is what causes it to move one direction or the other. This is completely separate from the auto pilot servos and power.

From the install manual... page 7-72 (EMS section) Use the Engine Information Wizard (SETUP MENU > EMS SETUP > ENGINE INFORMATION) to specify engine type, horsepower rating, redline and cruise RPM, and set HOBBS and TACH time

Agree the temperature was not related. Sounds like it may be a loose connection somewhere.

Roman, No need for the remote compass with the AD-AHRS installed. It is meant for installation where you are not able to find a good spot for the AD-AHRS. If you decide to install primary and backup AD-AHRS, the 236 compass would trump both AD-AHRS when configured.

I apparently was not clear. I didn't mean ground to the stick but ground near the stick is acceptable. Obviously, this can be done in non-metal aircraft.

Correct, the D10A and D100 have the AHRS built in but require a separate magnetic compass and OAT sensor, I believe.

I would bet that the unshielded plug wires are your issue. Maybe others with your setup could chime in with their experience?

Here are pictures of my -7A that might help confirm proper installation.

Joe, Need more information about your setup but one thing to check is that your spark plug wires are shielded.

I suspect something is wired incorrectly - as in two headsets sharing the same output from the intercom, which would increase the resistance and reduce the volume. My RV-7A is very loud too (no mufflers) but I have the radio at half volume and the intercom at about 30% with internal settings at...

I suspect you have a widget configured that is triggering the alarm but may not be visible on the EMS part of the screen.

See my response on VAF also but I think you'll need to remove the dial widget and re-add it to the EMS page. You may also need to associate the widget first in the EMS input assignment page.

Can't comment on your wire colors but the PPR setting should be checked. The resistor is require if connecting to a magneto p-lead for RPM. Also, revision AD is now available for download with AE on the way soon.

No concerns, IMO. Thermocouple leads are very low current. Mag P-Leads are shielded with shielding grounded at one end to avoid EMI. I have all my EMS engine wires and Mag P-lead running through the same firewall hole with no issues.

In general, you want all audio/com related grounds to share a common point. PTT, though, is one that shouldn't matter, IMO. That said, sticking with the schematics will help with troubleshooting down the road when you forget how it was done :)

What dlloyd said... SIL=1 is not valid unless you are using the GPS-250 receiver, which the FAA has decided to no longer accept. If you have the 2020 GPS receiver, check your configuration and ensure the SIL is set to 3.

PTT just needs to sense ground, when pushed. Grounding locally to the stick is acceptable.

I believe you need to wire the SL30 directly to the D180 for NAV data. Same for the 480 NAV output. Sounds like you have these already going to a selector switch and properly connected. Connecting the 480 GPS to the D180 will require an ARINC-429 translator with separate input to the D180.

In the mean time, check out the MGL N16 NAV radio and Razor control head. It provides essentially the same functionality as the SL30 but for a lot less money and the radio is remotely installed (Razor in the panel). You can push frequencies from the Dynon SV too. I've done a lot of research and...

It's on the AP Button Panel, which you should have if using Expert mode. Otherwise, it can be added to the panel anywhere you'd like (see the install manual).